Crago Door Sill Repair

With the door gap braced along its' length with a piece of angle iron I cut away the original outer and an old repaired inner sill. I then welded the strengthener sill to the outer sill that I got from Auto Craft, cleaned up any welds and trimmed any excess metal from the van and the panels that prevented a comfortable fit for all the parts.
Trying to get the sill aligned just right to the doors, current chassis and curve of the body took a lot of trial and error until I was happy with a position I liked. Although this meant the rear wheel arch patch I'd fitted earlier didn't match at the lower lip and had to be reworked to align. The outer sill was then tack welded, checked for alignment with the door gaps, their closed position and the outer curve of the van, and then finally the sill was welded in position. I worked out from the old floor that the top of the outer sill sits about 8 mm higher than the top of the chassis rails because of the step in the floor panel.
When fitting the inner sill I had to pull the sill into the center with rope (!) to get the outside bodyline straight and to reduce the gap between the sill and the chassis rails. Although I supported it with the angle iron it still bowed out at the rear cargo door hinge line. Unfortunately at the moment I'm not welding the inner sill to the current chassis as these pieces will be replaced later, so with the inner sill positioned correctly and just welded at either end I have to sort the gaps to the chassis again later.

Manufacturing Chassis Supports


Although I haven't been in the garage for a while, I have been able to get into the workshop and fold up a few more parts for the cargo floor chassis. The hardest part of hand forming is getting two parts the same. If your first fold is a little off it can become a big error on the last fold.


I had to cut away the tab that should run along the full length of the top hat section because I would not have been able to fit it into the folding machines jaws. But that's not too bad as this is where the jacking points will be. The others tabs I will fold up when I get the parts to the garage so that I can make sure the fit is correct.




 
Here's the drawings I made.

A is the I beam
B is the top hat sections
C is the inner sill
D shows the angle for the aft cross section to account for the chassis rails widening.
E is the capping plate for the rear cross section because it has no other pieces below it.
 
 
 
 
The outrigger I mad a paper template from the measurements taken from the hole left and used this to get the angle of the fold correct.




Chassis Patch Repair

With the extra piece of steel the metal supplier gave me I was able to neatly patch the hole in the left chassis rail.
It's great to be able to weld decent gauge steel without having to worry about distorting it.